Croatia From the Eyes of a Sommelier

Join us on our journey through the enchanting landscape of Croatia’s hidden gems for wine enthusiasts. In a recent interview, we delved into – Pupitres Wine Room in Zagreb, owned by the passionate sommelier, Jelena Šimić Valentić. Jelena's journey through the world of wine, discovering Croatia's unique varietals, up-and-coming regions, and invaluable advice for first-time wine tasters.

Croatia, despite its relatively small size in the world of wine production, boasts a rich tapestry of indigenous grape varieties and diverse terroirs. With less than 16,000 hectares of vineyards, Croatia may pale in comparison to the world's 7.3 million hectares, but what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in diversity. Jelena proudly showcases Croatia's 130 indigenous native grape varieties, each contributing to the country's vibrant wine culture.

In the Croatian uplands, regions like Zagorje and Prigorje shine with their production of white wines such as Kraljevina and Pokupe. Utilizing traditional champagne methods, these wines exude freshness and uniqueness, making them perfect for savoring on a summer's day. Discover Maderkin Breg in Zagorje Medimurje area, only one hour from Zagreb and it has unbelievable forests where you can order wine and enjoy the vineyards. The best time to enjoy the hills of Zagorje is in July. This is a great option for a day trip from Zagreb.

Contrastingly, in Slavonija, the renowned wine Graševina reigns supreme, boasting a history spanning over 300 years. Whether enjoyed fresh and elegant or aged to perfection, Graševina offers a diverse array of styles to tantalize the palate. The traditional method of drinking Graševina is as a spritzer, called “gemišt”, a combination of Graševina and mineral water. In this region there are know for dried meats, espcailly the Slavonian Kulen (a spicy dried sausage) and čvarci (cracklings). One of my favorite local wine experiences is Podrumi Krešić, the Champions of Graševina in 2024.

Venturing further south to Dalmatia, you'll discover a treasure trove of indigenous grape varieties, each contributing to the region's rich winemaking heritage. From the elegant Malvazija Istarksa of Istria Region to the robust Plavac Mali of Pelješac Peninsula, Dalmatia's wines are as diverse as the landscapes they hail from. But perhaps the most enchanting aspect of Croatian wine lies in its exclusivity – with many family vineyards producing limited quantities of wine, each bottle becomes a unique expression of its terroir. My personal favorite is from Hvar, the Plavac Mali, a red wine that is comparable to a Cabernet Savignon. However, there are many options througout the Dalamatian Coast. The Peninsula Peljesac which is a hidden gem for wine enthusiatasts and nature lovers! Be sure to visit Bogojević, Krez, Bartulović, or Miloš (all family owned). While you are there try the Restaurant Ficović, located in the village of Hodelji.

As Croatia's wine culture continues to evolve, new regions and trends emerge, offering exciting opportunities for both enthusiasts and newcomers alike. Subregions such as Zagorje, Medimurje, and Moslavina are gaining recognition, while Istria remains at the forefront of innovation. In Dalmatia, a new generation of winemakers is taking the reins, ushering in a modern era of winemaking focused on quality and sustainability.

For those embarking on their first Croatian wine tasting adventure, Jelena offers invaluable advice. She emphasizes the importance of familiarizing oneself with Croatia's diverse regions, from the slopes of Zagorje to the sun-drenched vineyards of Dalmatia. To truly appreciate Croatian wine, one must immerse in the local culture, explore family vineyards, and indulge in traditional cuisine paired with exquisite wines. The journey becomes not just a tasting, but an exploration of Croatia's rich history, vibrant culture, and a creation of new memories.

As you embark on your own Croatian wine adventure, remember Jelena's words of wisdom: "You need to come, you need to feel Croatia and the people with big hearts." For in Croatia's vineyards and cellars (podrumi), amidst the rolling hills and sun-kissed shores, you'll find not just wine, but a story waiting to be shared, a memory waiting to be made. So raise your glass, toast to new beginnings, and let the journey begin. Cheers to the beauty of Croatian wine and the unforgettable experiences that await.

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